Published on 26-09-2019
14 Signs that your Goldfish is sick / stressed out
Here I have mentioned common Goldfish stress /sickness symptoms and what to do about them. Regular testing of water quality is very helpful in tracking the sources of many problems. However, if you notice any of these symptoms, you should always check the water parameters using a water testing kit. Changing 20%-30% of the water will also help. Checking for these signs during feeding will ensure that you catch these signs early on, so you can begin treatment before the problem gets too serious. Stress and sickness quickly make the Goldfish’s immune system weak, and that makes way for even more problems. So once you notice anything wrong with your fish, it is best to start treatment as soon as possible.
- Increased respiration rate / Gasping for air at the water surface:
When the oxygen level in a tank goes below favourable levels, Goldfish come up to the water surface and try to gasp for air. If you notice your fish doing this, you need to check if your air pump and air stone are working properly and releasing air bubbles in your tank. Is your tank overstocked? You can see the recommended tank sizes for each Goldfish breed here.
If it is overstocked, you will need to transfer some fish to another tank. Or maybe your tank is large and the air pump is not powerful enough to supply sufficient air to all your fish. If you have plants, you may need to increase air supply. The water quality could also be low. If there is too much build-up of bacteria, or the nitrate/nitrite levels are up, the oxygen level will rapidly go down. You should do a water change, especially if the last water change was done more than a week ago.
- Not eating:
Goldfish are almost always looking for food. They don’t have stomachs, so the food they eat passes through their systems quickly. Keeping this in mind, if Goldfish do not eat even after food is offered to them, it should be a cause for concern. It could have internal parasites, and should be treated for them. (However, if your Goldfish are kept in an outdoor pond, their metabolism slows down when it gets below 55° F or 12.7 °C in the winter. This is called torpor, and is absolutely normal. In fact, they shouldn’t even be fed until the temperature rises again.)
- Erratic swimming pattern / swimming tilted to one side / swimming upside down:
Goldfish can swim erratically if they have overeaten, or are constipated. You could solve this by not giving them food for 2-3 days, and then feeding them boiled and deshelled peas. Another reason for such swimming behaviour could be that the fish is injured. Check for any pointed objects where the fish could bump into and get hurt, like gravel, decorations or aquarium equipment. If there are aggressive species in the tank, they could be hurting the goldfish too.
Goldfish that swim in such a way may be affected by swim bladder disorder. Goldfish have an organ, called a swim bladder, which is filled with air. They take into or release air from this organ to help go up or down inside the water. The swim bladder also helps them stay stable. I’ve written more on it below.
- Lying at the bottom of the tank:
Goldfish are curious creatures and are always looking around for something to eat or nibble on. So if they become lethargic or spend most of their time on the floor of the tank, it is a cause for concern. It could have an infection, parasites, constipation or even a swim bladder disorder. To get a better understanding of the situation, check to see if it shows any other symptoms mentioned on this list.
- Being lethargic:
Sometimes Goldfish appear to be lazy. They swim slowly for extended periods of time, don’t realise that food has been put in the tank until they are right in front of it, or constantly bump into decorations / walls of the tank while swimming slowly. This could be because they are unaware of their surroundings, which can happen when they are sick.
- Rubs against the aquarium glass and other surfaces:
If your Goldfish is just rubbing its face on the glass walls when you go near the aquarium, it could mean that the Goldfish wants you to give it food, or is probably just coming closer to say hi! However, if this continues for extended periods even after you move away from the tank and the fish is rubbing its face / body on the gravel, decorations or glass, it could have parasites like ich.
A common way Goldfish scratch themselves when they have ich, is by going to the aquarium substrate and quickly rubbing their sides on the substrate. Then they quickly move upwards, and repeat. Medicines for treating ich are easily available at pet stores and online. The most common ones are liquids which you can pour directly into the aquarium.
- Clamped or folded fins:
If your Goldfish folds its fins and tail and sits in one spot continuously, then something is wrong with it. (Except if it is sleeping at night.) A healthy Goldfish constantly moves around. If you notice such behaviour, you should test the water parameters immediately with a water testing kit. You can check the ideal water parameters for you Goldfish breed on this page. At this point, the fish is likely showing other symptoms as well, that are mentioned on this page. You could look for them too.
- Torn or frayed fins:
If your Goldfish’s tail or fins appear to be torn or have a reddish colour that wasn’t always there, it could be attacked by another fish. If you have any fish species that are fin nippers or are downright aggressive, it would be best to separate them in different tanks immediately.
Also, once separated, check the water parameters and take corrective action. You can read how to change the water parameters to the ideal conditions here. If the tail or fins continue to deteriorate, the fish could have tail or fin rot. Don’t worry though, as medication for this is easily available in pet stores and online.
- Fluffy patches, discolored spots, or raised bumps:
You might notice some patches on your Goldfish’s body that are discoloured, or some scales might be missing. If there are white spots or patches, it could be ich, also called white spot disease. Or perhaps it got startled and crashed into the glass walls / decorations, causing injury. In any case, it is best to check the water parameters in the aquarium.
- Bloated or has raised scales:
If your goldfish appears unusually round, it could be bloated due to gulping air from the surface, overfeeding or indigestion. Some breeds of Goldfish are normally round, so being sure of which breed you have is helpful. This could also be a sign of dropsy. The treatment for which is mentioned below.
- Pale gills:
Pale looking gills can be caused by a number of diseases or parasites. Identifying goldfish diseases and their cures are mentioned in detail below. Look for other symptoms to help zero in on the actual cause.
- Noticeable lumps or parasites:
Noticeable external parasites include ich, anchor worms, fish lice, and flukes. They are usually situated on the fins or the body. Depending on the parasite, you will need different medications and strategies to deal with it. More details on Goldfish parasites are given below.
- Protruding eyes:
If either one or both your goldfish’s eyes appear to be too large or drooping downward, it could be a bacterial infection. More on how to diagnose and treat it is given below. However, some goldfish breeds have larger eyes, and it is normal for them. To check which breed goldfish you have, you can click here.
18 Goldfish Diseases and Conditions with their treatments:
- Ich
Also called the white spot disease, ich is caused by parasites. These parasites usually show up when the fish is stressed out due to bad water quality, sudden changes in water temperature or chemistry,transportation, or fin-nipping and harassment by aggressive fish.This is one of the reasons it is a good practice to quarantine new fish in a hospital tank.You can read more on setting up and maintaining hospital tanks here.When a fish suffers from ich, the fins and / or body get covered in white spots. It is very itchy for the fish and they spend almost all their time trying to scratch themselves against the aquarium glass decorations or substrate. They might also have trouble breathing.
Now that you know what to look for to identify whether your fish is suffering from white spot disease, you can easily get medication for it from a pet store or even online.You can increase the temperature of the water and add 1/3rd teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of water and leave it there. If you have any invertebrates in the tank (that you would like to keep), you will need to remove them. This is because most medication is copper-based and invertebrates cannot handle copper in the tank. Although if you have any pest snails in your tank, this is a great way to get rid of them and hit two birds with one stone!
- Swim Bladder Disorder
Commonly called the Swim Bladder Disease, it is actually a disorder. Fish have an organ called the swim bladder, which they fill up with air.They alsoregulate the amount of air inside it. Along with their fins and tail, fish also use the swim bladder to stay upright underwater and either go deeper or swim upwards.
Sometimes the bladder gets disturbed by other things in the fish’s body, thus making it difficult for the fish to stay upright.This is called the Swim Bladder Disorder. When this happens, the fish may swim tilted to one side, swim upside down, or have difficulty rising to the surface.
Common causes for this are overfeeding (too much food that is applying extra pressure on one side of the bladder) or constipation.The first thing you need to do, as always, is to check the water parameters and make any necessary corrections.I’ve written more on how to change the water parameters to suit your fish over here.
Once that is taken care of, you need to stop feeding the fish for 3 days. Separate the fish from its tankmates if you have to. Don’t worry! Fish can handle being without food for 3 days. It shouldn’t be a problem, and will help with constipation. After 3 days, you can boil some peas and remove their shells. Chop them into pieces tiny enough for your fish to swallow whole, and feed them to it. This will help if the disorder was caused by overeating or constipation.
However, since the swim bladder is an internal organ, there could be any number of factors causing the disorder. If the above mentioned method doesn’t work, there could be any reason for it, which would be very difficult to pinpoint, let alone cure. Don’t lose hope, however! This condition is not contagious, and if it’s not too serious, many times fish live for years with it. They can still be healthy and eat properly. They just will be swimming in an erratic manner, that’s all!
- Fin Rot / Tail Rot
Fin rot is another bacterial infection which usually affects the fish when it is under stress. If the bacteria affect the tail, it is called tail rot. Keeping your fish stress-free goes a long way in avoiding fin rot. The common causes for fish stress are mentioned under point 1 (Ich).
Symptoms of fin rot are fins / tails that appear to be torn, cut or reddish in colour. In particularly bad situations, you can even see the bacteria grown on the edges of the fins, which will be white in colour.These bacteria eat up the fins and tail to the base. And if they succeed in reaching the base, the fins or tail probably won’t grow back. As bacteria are infectious, the affected fish must immediately be moved to a hospital tank.
To begin the healing process, as always, you must ensure that the water parameters are ideal for your fish species.You can find out how to change the water parameters to suit your fish over here.Then, you can add 1/3rd teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of water and leave it there. It usually takes 3-5 days for any visible changes to appear. Commercial treatments are also available at pet stores or online. You can use them too, according to the instructions on the packaging.
Once the fish start carrying their fins and tail in a more erect manner and the whiteness or redness has disappeared, you can do a 20%-25% water change to remove the salt and medication. Continuing with the weekly water changes will gradually remove the other excess chemicals. If you have any pet invertebrates in the tank (ones that are not pests), you will have to remove them as the medication can kill them.
- Fungal Infections / Cotton wool disease
Again, good water quality is critical in order to avoid fungal infections. Stress also needs to be kept in check. Fish that are injured, under stress or are already suffering from some other disease are easy targets for fungal growth. Fungus can attack any area of the fish’s body or fins. They look like white growth, similar to cotton balls. Like bacteria, fungus is also infectious, so any affected fish must be moved to a hospital tank.You can click here to read how to set up a hospital tank.The treatment is similar to that of fin rot (except that they both may have different medications).
- Velvet / Gold Dust Disease
These are external parasites that look like brown or golden dust on the backs of your Goldfish. They can be difficult to see on Goldfish, because of their colours. As with any other parasites, fungus or bacteria, these are also usually avoidable by quarantining and treating any new fish or plants in a hospital tank before transferring them to the main tank. Keeping the water parameters close to ideal conditions is also important.
Velvet often starts on the backs of the Goldfish, before spreading to the other parts of the body. If left untreated, it can cover the entire body including the gills. If it covers the entire body, the Goldfish will look like is slime coat has become thicker and more shiny. An affected Goldfish will clamp its fins and or tail, reduce movement and scratch its body against the glass, gravel and decorations, much like the symptoms of ich.
For treatment, you can increase the temperature of the water by a couple of degrees. This will speed up the life cycle of the parasites. Be sure to check the temperature range your breed of Goldfish is comfortable in though, as exceeding it could cause other problems.For example, if the temperature range that your fish species can tolerate is 50-72 °F / 10-22 °C you should raise the temperature in the tank to 72 °F / 22 °C. To know what temperature range and other factors are best for your fish species, please click here. Velvet parasites also generate some energy through photosynthesis, so switching off the aquarium lights and covering the aquarium with a cloth will help. You can add 1/3rd teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of aquarium water and begin treatment with commercially available medication. The medication is available in pet stores or online.
Unless the instructions on the medicine package say otherwise, do not perform water changes during treatment.You can resumewater changes after all symptoms of velvet or gold dust disease have cleared.If you have any pet invertebrates in the tank (ones that are not pests), you will have to remove them as the medication can kill them.
- Anchor Worms (Lemaea)
Although they are called anchor worms, they are not really worms, but a species of crustaceans called Lemaea. They could be introduced in a tank through new fish that were not quarantined properly. When they attach themselves to the bodies of Goldfish, they look like white or green hair-like creatures hanging from the Goldfish. They dig deep into the Goldfish’s body, and the area they are connected to gets swollen and inflamed, red in colour. The Goldfish will try to get rid of them by scratching its body against the gravel, decorations or the tank’s walls.
To treat anchor worm infestations, you can add 1/3rd teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of water.You can increase the temperature of the water by a couple of degrees. This will speed up the life cycle of the parasites. Be sure to check the temperature range your breed of Goldfish is comfortable in though, as exceeding it could cause other problems.
Then, you can get commercially available medication online or from a pet store, and use it according to the instructions given on the packaging. Don’t do a water change till the treatment is completed. After all the symptoms including the swollen areas are gone, you can perform a water change, and then continue with the routine weekly water changes.If you have any pet invertebrates in the tank (ones that are not pests), you will have to remove them as the medication can kill them.
- Fish Lice (Argulus)
As with the anchor worms, fish lice are not really lice, but another species of crustaceans, called Argulus. They have longer life spans than most other fish parasites, so completely treating them could take upto a month. They’re quite rare in aquariums, and usually come into aquariums if new fish are caught from the wild and dumped in the tank, without proper quarantining.You can read how to properly quarantine new fish here.
Fish lice are greenish brown in colour and oval in shape. They attach themselves to the bodies of Goldfish, usually on the bellies or bases of the fins. The areas they are attached to also become red and swollen. As with other parasites, treatment should begin with 1/3rd teaspoon aquarium salt per gallon of water in the tank, along with increasing the water temperature by a couple of degrees. Be sure to check the temperature range your breed of Goldfish is comfortable in though, as exceeding it could cause other problems.
For example, if the temperature range that your fish species can tolerate is 50-72 °F / 10-22 °C you should raise the temperature in the tank to 72 °F / 22 °C. Next, you can get commercial medication from shops or online and use them according to the instructions on their packaging. Once all the symptoms are gone, you can resume with the weekly water changes.If you have any pet invertebrates in the tank (ones that are not pests), you will have to remove them as the medication can kill them.
- Flukes
Flukes are microscopic parasites that latch on to the skin of Goldfish. They eat up the slime coat and also suck blood. While they are impossible to see without a microscope, affected fish show symptoms by scratching their bodies against the substrate, aquarium glass or decorations. They also clamp up their fins and tail and greatly reduce their movement.
While one of the first steps to treat most parasites is to add aquarium salt, it won’t work on Flukes as they are resistant to salt. You will need to increase the temperature of the aquarium water by a couple degrees, but be careful not to make the water too hot for your fish!For example, if the temperature range that your fish species can tolerate is 50-72 °F / 10-22 °C you should raise the temperature in the tank to 72 °F / 22 °C. Then, take the fish out of the water and clean the infected area with Hydrogen Peroxide swabs / wipes.
As the fish won’t be able to breathe outside water, if it’s going to take more than a few seconds to properly swab the area, remember to put it back in the water so it can catch its breath.Then you will need to treat them with commercial medication that can be bought from pet stores or online. You can follow the instructions on the package.If you have any pet invertebrates in the tank (ones that are not pests), you will have to remove them as the medication can kill them.
- Trichondia
As with all parasites, Trichondia is best avoided by quarantining new fish and keeping the aquarium water clean. Fish suffering from Trichondia will show the same symptoms as those suffering from Flukes. Trichondia are also microscopic organisms, just like Flukes.
Treatment is also done in the same way as Flukes, except the medications may be different.
- Hole in the Head
Hole in the head is a scarily named condition, often abbreviated as HITH. It is not a disease by itself, but caused by a number of factors. It usually starts above the eyes as a reddish rash-like thing and increases in size and gets deeper too. If left untreated, it can quickly turn fatal for your lovely fish! As always, the best way to prevent it is always to quarantine new fish before transferring them to the main tank.
The underlying cause is usually a Hexamita infection, combined with other issues like stress, improper diet and improper water conditions. As the source of the problem cannot be precisely determined, every effort must be taken to make all the parameters as close to ideal conditions as possible to cure it. The water quality must be close to ideal for the breed of your fish. You can click here to find out what the ideal parameters are for your fish. A proper and varied diet also needs to be given to the fish.
The temperature will need to be increased to the highest point it is comfortable for your fish. For example, if the temperature range that your fish species can tolerate is 50-72 °F / 10-22 °C you should raise the temperature in the tank to 72 °F / 22 °C. To know what temperature range and other factors are best for your fish species,please click here.Keeping a filter with activated carbon will also help, as it will filter out the Hexamita parasites from the water. Adding 1/3rd teaspoon aquarium salt along per gallon of aquarium water will also help. Then, take the fish out of the water and clean the infected area with Hydrogen Peroxide swabs / wipes.
As the fish won’t be able to breathe outside water, if it’s going to take more than a few seconds to properly swab the area, remember to put it back in the water so it can catch its breath. Next, you can start treatment using a commercially available medicine, which will be available online or at pet stores.
- Mouth Rot
Mouth rot is not a disease, but a condition. It could be caused by any of the bacteria or parasites mentioned on this page. If the infestation reaches your fish’s mouth, the fish will first start scratching its mouth on the aquarium walls, substrate or decorations. Then, the mouth area will turn red. If left untreated, the infection will eat into the lips, and the fish won’t be able to eat. At this point, even if the infection is eliminated, the fish won’t be able to eat, and lips don’t grow back. So the chances of the fish’s survival become very low. This is why it is necessary to catch any symptoms and begin treatment early on.
Since this condition is caused by parasites, prevention is better than cure. Having good water quality and quarantining new fish before putting them into your tank are necessary. However, once you notice signs of mouth rot, the first thing you need to do is bring the water parameters to desirable levels. Then, you will need to increase the water temperature to the highest point it is comfortable for your fish. For example, if the temperature range that your fish species can tolerate is 50-72 °F / 10-22 °C you should raise the temperature in the tank to 72 °F / 22 °C. Adding 1/3rd teaspoon aquarium salt per gallon of aquarium water will help.
Then, take the fish out of the water and clean the infected area with Hydrogen Peroxide swabs / wipes. As the fish won’t be able to breathe outside water, if it’s going to take more than a few seconds to properly swab the area, remember to put it back in the water so it can catch its breath. Next, you will need to begin treatment using commercially available medication, which can be bought online or from a pet store. The instructions on how to use it will be on the packaging.
- Ulcers
Ulcers start off looking like sore red patches on the scales of the fish, but soon a hole is formed in the fish’s body. The hole then gets larger and deeper, exposing the flesh. Once it starts getting bigger, it can get quite large very quickly. So treatment needs to begin as soon as you spot it. Ulcers are caused by parasites, usually Flukes. So the best thing to do is treat it for Flukes first (as mentioned in point number 8 above), before trying any other medication. Even before the medication though, it will help to clean the affected area with a hydrogen peroxide swab / wipe.
- Pop Eye
This is another condition caused by bacterial infection. Tiny bags of gas form behind the eyes, making the eyes move a little outward. In some cases, the eyes may even come off! Do keep in mind, however, that for some breeds of Goldfish, like the Black Moor, Telescope and Celestial, the eyes are normally protruding outwards. You need to be observant to spot if they are protruding more than usual.
To ease the pressure behind the eyes, you can add ¼ teaspoon Epsom Salt per 10 gallons of aquarium water.Then, you will need to increase the water temperature to the highest point it is comfortable for your fish. For example, if the temperature range that your fish species can tolerate is 50-72 °F / 10-22 °C you should raise the temperature in the tank to 72 °F / 22 °C. If you’re not sure what breed your Goldfish is, or to know what temperature range and other factors are best for your fish species,please click here. Next, you can start using medicine that you can get online or from pet stores. Pop eye is often accompanied by Dropsy, which is explained below.
- Dropsy / Pine Cone Disease
Dropsy is another condition, not a disease by itself. Fish suffering from Dropsy appear to be bloated or may have their scales turned outward, giving them the appearance like pine cones. In this condition, fluid gets accumulated inside the body. The cause for this is usually a bacterial infection, but could also be caused by problems with an organ, dirty water or improper diet.
The first thing to do is improve the water quality. Next, you can add ¼ teaspoon Epsom Salt per 10 gallons of aquarium water. Then, you will need to increase the water temperature to the highest point it is comfortable for your fish. For example, if the temperature range that your fish species can tolerate is 50-72 °F / 10-22 °C you should raise the temperature in the tank to 72 °F / 22 °C.
Next, you will need to use some antibiotics. The problem is, you can never be sure which bacteria are causing the damage. And by the time the ‘pine cones’ are formed, it is usually too late, as internal damage has already been done. But you can try to cure it though!
- Cloudy Eye / White Eye
Cloudy Eye happens when fish injure their eyes by crashing against substrate, decorations or the aquarium walls. Injured eyes can also be affected by bacterial infections.Fish with eyes that protrude more than others, like Telescope, Celestial and Black Moor Goldfish can injure their eyes more easily and are thus more susceptible to cloudy eye. This threat is even more imminent when a fish is already suffering from another bacterial or parasitic infection. This is because an infected fish will try to scratch its body and potentially injure itself.
If in its initial stage, Cloudy Eye can be cured just by getting the water to ideal conditions and then adding ½ teaspoon aquarium salt per gallon of water in the tank.
- Tumors
Tumors are excessive growth of cells. They can appear anywhere on a fish’s body. They can be smooth or lumpy, and may be pink, white or black in colour. They are caused by dirty water or a diet that has excessive preservatives. Affected fish may reduce their activity and clamp their fins and tail; or stop eating. In some cases, it may also be caused by fish genetics or viruses.
Tumors may also be cancerous, so your best bet is to avoid getting them in the first place. Keeping water conditions ideal and feeding a varied diet will help in avoiding it. Tumors cannot be treated at home, so if a fish gets it, you will have to take it to a vet that treats fish. And such vets are very rare.
- Carp Pox
Carp Pox is caused by viruses. It looks like pink or white warts on the edges of fins or on the body. The problem is, it is not clear how it spreads or how to cure it. However, it is not lethal to your fish. You could try to cure it by increasing the water temperature to the highest point it is comfortable for your fish. For example, if the temperature range that your fish species can tolerate is 50-72 °F / 10-22 °C you should raise the temperature in the tank to 72 °F / 22 °C.
So if you’re not sure what breed your Goldfish is, or to find out what temperature range and other factors are best for your fish species,please click here. Next, you can add ¼ teaspoon Epsom Salt per 10 gallons of aquarium water.
- Lymphocystis
This is another disease caused by viruses. Like all infections, they spread easily when fish are stressed out or are in improper water conditions. The best thing to do is to prevent them by keeping the water clean. You could try to cure it by increasing the water temperature to the highest point it is comfortable for your fish.
For example, if the temperature range that your fish species can tolerate is 50-72 °F / 10-22 °C you should raise the temperature in the tank to 72 °F / 22 °C Next, you can add ¼ teaspoon Epsom Salt per 10 gallons of aquarium water. Bathing your fish in Acriflavine may help.